Onsen-hop #23 Iromomiji

Exploring a fairly new hot spring complex on the outskirts of Kurokawa today, Iromomiji  (彩もみじ, not yet on the English onsen-hopping map,but tucked up a hill just a stone`s throw from Konoyu,which is number 23 on the map). The receptionist explained that they opened last October,but were forced to close for a while after the April earthquakes and just reopened this September.

It`s a fairly long walk from the visitor center,a steep climb at the end but apparently there is a shuttle bus (although I`m not sure if you have to phone for the bus ,possibly you do need to as I didn`t see it shuttling anyone backwards and forwards this afternoon….) Parking space may get a little tight at busy times,as there is also a soba restaurant next to the main outdoor bath and a mini village of at least six private family baths dotted in amongst the rocks and trees. These can be rented for a period of 50 minutes for between 1000 and 1500 yen and did look very attractive. But today I`m here for the purpose of outdoor onsen-hopping,so here`s the entrance…..

 

image

Onsen-hoppers this way please!

 

Lovely wooden interior,shiny dark wood floors and comfortable changing rooms with lockers and everything you need…. a flight of stone steps leads down first to a spacious indoor bath….

 

image

Indoor bath,shower area with amenities provided

 

….pause for the view….

 

image

View on the way to the outdoor bath

 

….and then to the bubbling jacuzzi-style outdoor bath….which is actually quite unusal for outdoor onsen hop bath tubs!

 

image

Nicely landscaped

image

Jacuzzi style bath

Also offered within the shiny and new onsen-hopping designated area are a sauna and a medicinal herb tub.The main bath is quite hot today and whoops….I forgot to look up what type of hot spring waters flow here….it`s not a sulphorous smell,I`m guessing a mild alkaline,which is good for all skin types and said to smooth the skin.

Next door to the bathing area,behind a huge,imposing wooden entry gate, is the newly-opened (10/10) Gekkoju Ryokan  (月光樹) which offers 8 very private,tastefully decorated bungalows complete with private indoor and outdoor baths and amazing views…start saving for a stay here.

 

image

Entrance gate to Gekkoju Ryokan

image

Inside one of the 8 private bungalows

image

Bath and verandah of one of the bungalows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In summary……squeaky clean and new

Would I visit again? Yes,anytime!

Staff: Very polite and helpful,litle English.

 

 

 

Onsen-hop #21 Yamanoyu

Looking at the small and unimposing entrance directly off Shimokawabata Dori in the centre of  Kurokawa Onsen you might almost decide to give the baths at Ryokan Yamanoyu (旅館やまの湯,number 17 on the English onsen-hopping map) a miss….

 

image

Entrance to Ryokan Yamanoyu

 

But if you are in the center of town and looking for  a quick and quiet dip this is the ideal stop,if you don’t mind steps.I found it quite intriguing that after taking the elevator to the 4th floor there was a corridor,then a flight of steps,then another…

image

…and another…

image

….and another….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So by the time  I reached the actual outdoor baths ,which are quiet,compact and secluded ,I was fairly high up ,tucked away on the hillside. Hence the name ‘Yamanoyu’,which literally means ‘mountain bath’.

 

image

Small and secluded

 

Facilities were basic yet adequate,and at 10:30 on a rainy weekday morning I had the place to myself. The  mildly acidic (tanjyunsen) spring water was just the right temperature,and not too hot for the lingering humidity and heat of September…hooray,autumn is finally just around the corner!

 

 

In summary……lots of steps

Would I visit again?   Yes,for a quiet and central dip

Staff: Polite,but all communication in Japanese (and very few English signs,you may get lost….)

 

image

Nice lamps….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

30 years of `Nyuto tegata` Onsen passes in Kurokawa Onsen!

To celebrate 30 years of their `nyuto tegata` onsen-hopping passes,Kurokawa Onsen have brought out a special commemorative edition!

The cost is the usual  1300yen for a normal-sized one,which allows one guest to visit three different outdoor hotspring baths within a period of 6 months (be sure to pick up an English map with details of the various baths when you purchase your onsen-hopping pass!) OR,if you are visiting with a group of up to ten friends,why not buy a giant pass ,30 bathing opportunities for only 12,000yen?

They look like this,and can be purchased at the Visitor Center or at the reception desk at any of the 25  inns belonging to the Ryokan Association.

 

image

Commemorative Onsen-hopping passes,regular and giant size!

 

The stickers on the back of these commemorative passes are bright orange,and there is a special prize campaign running until March 2017.  When you visit a bath using your onsen-hopping pass the receptionist removes one of the stickers,and if this reveals a prize symbol you could win a  1000yen token for spending in certain local shops There are even some top prizes of 10,000yen vouchers towards booking a stay in a Kurokawa Ryokan!

 

image

Stickers on the commemorative passes are bright orange

Happy Onsen-hopping! It`s quieter than usual here in Kurokawa Onsen at the moment so you can probably enjoy an outdoor bath all to yourself…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onsen-hop #20 Wafuryokan Misato

A quick lunchtime onsen-hop today,Wafuryokan Misato (和風旅館美里 number 15 on the English guide map ) only a minute or so on foot from the Visitor Center.

From the reception desk it felt very strange to go UP a flight of stairs to the outdoor bath,which is be located on a small hill tucked behind the ryokan,and although right in the center of Kurokawa it was extremely peaceful.

 

 

image

View from the changing room

 

 

As soon as I had entered the ryokan there was the unmistakable eggy smell of a sulphur bath wafting along the corridors,and the water was a beautiful milky blue…

 

 

image

Smelly but beautiful!

 

The facilities were quite simple,no heating in the changing area ,basic wash area and toilets located on a different floor of the ryokan . Lockers were provided outside the bathing area,but I cant remember seeing any hairdryers,sinks or even mirrors in or around the changing area.

 

image

Just a quick rinse before entering the bath will suffice.

 

Simple is best….

 

image

 

In summary…….blue and sulphury

Would I visit again?   Yes,so peaceful yet in center of Kurokawa

Staff :friendly and spoke a little English

 

 

 

 

 

Onsen-hop #19 Okyakuya

Unusually it took three goes today to find an outdoor bath that was open….two others that I still haven`t got round to trying  were both closed for cleaning,although this wasn`t mentioned on the `Daily Onsen Updates` page of the Kurokawa Ryokan Association English website. So…by the time I decided on Okyakuya (御客屋 12 on the English guide map) I was cold,damp and ready to warm up in the bath on this dull,rainy afternoon. It`s quite easy to find,central and just a stone`s throw from Ikoi Ryokan.

 

image

Entrance to Okyakuya

image

Sign explaining that outdoor baths are swapped round once a day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once again a maze of stairs and corridors led down to the outdoor bathing area,which is situated very close to the river but doesn`t open onto it directly as in Yamamizuki. A member of staff led me downstairs to the bath ( popping up again just after I`d finished) helpfully showing me the way while explaining that the outdoor baths are swapped over every day at midday. The women`s bath at this time of day was designated as the smaller iron-rich rocky pool (luckily for me it was also partially roofed so I didn`t get rained on) while the men`s bath was the larger one up a further flight of steps.

 

 

image

Rocky bath with iron-rich waters…

image

Up the steps to the men`s bath (swapped over at midday).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The outdoor bath was simple ,but pleasant and not too hot. An indoor bath with an area for showering also offered various shampoos and body soaps. Signs in Japanese in the outdoor bath explained that showering after a bath is not necessary as it washes off the beneficial hot spring deposits on the skin, so I went home smelling rather earthy and metallic!

 

image

No need to shower after a dip (left) and soap is not provided here out of consideration for the environment,particularly the river nearby (right).

 

 

 

Actually…this establishment really likes signs….image

but you can still get lost!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One very important sign on the wall in the outdoor bath explains that there has been an onsen here for over three hundred years,making it the oldest in Kurokawa. Obviously the building is a lot more recent,but the beautiful wooden corridors and stairs certainly give it an air of times gone by.

 

 

image

Hope he enjoyed his bath…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In summary……historical

Would I visit again?  Yes,to try the larger outdoor bath next time.

Staff: Attentive,spoke some English.